Wednesday, May 7, 2008

Black Point, Exuma


















The reader will never see an article about Black Point in the sailing or travel magazines, but there is something very special about this place. The place is a universal favorite of the cruising set here. It is the only settlement on Great Guana Cay and the second largest settlement in the Exuma chain with about 400 people. Since the commercial fishing has played out and agriculture impossible on rock its continued existence is something of a mystery. There is no tourism or natural wonder except a small blow hole. However, the people of Black Point seem to be the reason it thrives. They are exceptionally friendly, even by Bahamas standards. They appear industrious, the houses are meticulously kept, and they seem well educated or at least well spoken. The cruising guide reports that the men of Black Point provide all of the skilled labor for many miles around.

The town is 5 miles south of Stanial's Cay and comparisons are inevitable. Staniel's Cay has magayachts in abundance and the world famous Staniel's Cay Yacht Club with megayacht prices. Stanial's Cay has the Thunder Ball grotto and the association with James Bond. They also charge 40 cents per gallon for water and $5 to dispose of a small bag of garbage ($10 for a big bag). Fuel charges are litterly breathtaking. At Black Point water and garbage are free and internet access is also free and of better quality. There is no fuel available. The anchorage are similar, but there is no dockage here.






Our stay there featured long walks on deserted roads and isolated beaches. We spent time at Lorraines's cafe. Lorraine Rolle served the best cracked conch ever. Her mother makes fantastic bread. Each loaf weighs 2 pounds at least and tastes like cake. Jan slices her coconut bread and then makes French Toast to die for. Wednesday at 1 pm the weekly mailboat arrives from Nassau. It is a riotous scene with nearly half the town on a small pier.

On top of this we found the cleanest and cheapest laundermat ever in the Exumas at the Rock Inn. For all future Exuma cruises Black Point will be our stop over.

1 comment:

Anonymous said...

Love the pictures and stories. Happy Mother's Day to Jan.

JA