Saturday, May 17, 2008

Back in the Park again

























From Black Point it is only 22 n. mi. north to Waderwick Wells and the Exuma Land and Sea Park. We were able to secure a mooring ball at headquarters (the north field). As I wrote in our post in January this is one of the most picturesque spots on earth! We were able to renew acquaintance with park warden Judy. We snorkeled, swam and hiked over the nature trails that the park has carved out and maintains. I learned 5 or 6 new plants. The park even has poison wood trees. This tree was, of course, made famous in the novel "The Poison Wood Bible"

On Saturday night the park hosted a hamburger and beer blast in honor of the 50th anniversary of the founding of the park. Even though hamburgers and beer are not on my diet we had to go and celebrate. Judy is so frugal that this was a really special occasion.

After 3 nights we switched to the South mooring field for another two nights. This is another special place in Exuma. It is a well documented pirate's lair. It is so well hidden that I never would have found it without the Garmin chart plotter. Pirates would sally forth from this place to prey on shipping using the important Wide Open Cut 5 miles to the north. I say 'documented pirate's lair' because a grass grows ashore that is unique to Louisiana and must have come over with pirate grass sleeping mats.

We walked all over the southern part of the island on specially marked trails. In the Bahamas most of the islands are private and this is almost the only opportunity to experience the ecology of the interior of these islands and cays. So regrettably, this land was once forested. All of the timber was cut down or burned. Much was logged off by under employed pirates and the rest was simply burned off by planters wanting to grow cotton. After a few years in the 1700's all of the topsoil blew away leaving only the volcanic limestone that remains today. This was an eco-crime that rivals anything we have today and will take 1000+ years to repair. Currently there is a vigorous growth of low moisture and salt resistant scrubs and bushes that cover the islands.

Also in the south field there are stomatolites. Stomatolites are bacterial coral like formations that are almost 3 billion years old--yes, billion with a B. They are unprepossessing looking flat gray rocks in 8 feet of water. I will take it on faith that these are some of the oldest features on the surface of our planet. They are also unique to Waderwick Wells and are said not to exist anywhere else in the Western hemisphere.

We had one day of the best snorkeling ever on our trip. Jan saw a 4 foot reef shark and a lion fish. I saw hundreds of tropical reef fish, hugh yellow tails, and parrot fish. All of this was in 4 to 7 feet of crystal clear water. The park has been a no take zone for 50 years. The seas here must look like they did before wide spread fishing depleted the stocks.

When the strong south westerly wind subsided we moved up to Shroud Cay. It is also part of the park and features a dense mangrove swamp. There are canals all through the island that look like some thing out of "African Queen."

We were sorry to leave. As I wrote in my January post about the park--it is the crown jewel of the Exumas. In my opinion a stay at the park is the best reason for visiting the Exuma chain.

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