White
Pepper has written about Light
House Beach and Harbour Island, but what about Rock Sound? We spent
8 days there celebrating the Easter holiday and the homecoming
festival.
Rock
Sound, Eleuthra, has so much to offer the boater. There is almost
360 degree protection. The anchoring is secure in 8 to 10 feet of
tenacious sand.
Fuel
and good groceries are readily available. There is a bank,
restaurant, and liquor store within easy walking distance. A very
good doctor attends at the local clinic. It would be easy to spend
weeks here.
Within
Rock Sound itself there is less good news. Many buildings and homes
are well kept. Many others are derelict, the inhabitants having gone
to Nassau or to the graveyard. There are a number of other
interesting buildings which appear derelict, but are actually
inhabited by illegal Haitian refugees. Bahamians regard Haitians with
suspicion, but possibly these immigrants will reinvigorate Rock
Sound. Tourism is far away. There is no industry here. Agriculture
has been abandoned. Fishing is difficult considering the population
pressure. Regardless Rock Sound has many natural advantages, and
with proper guidance prosperity should be possible.
One
of Rock Sound's natural advantages is the Ocean Hole. It is a land
based blue hole that rivals Dean's Blue Hole in depth, size and
beauty. The town has created a park around this hole that is
peaceful, refreshing, and beautiful. A mile and a half away there is
a marvelous ocean beach that is much under utilized.
The
Easter homecoming was both festive and poignant. Many natives return
annually to celebrate Rock Sound. The music is very loud and lasts
well into the early morning. Hugs and “how are you”s are the
norm. Easter Monday is a particularly English holiday that is
scrupulously celebrated in the Bahamas. Since nothing is going on
and no stores are open it is a true day of rest. But by Tuesday
morning everybody is gone, having returned to Nassau or wherever.
White
Pepper left Rock Sound with
deeply mixed emotions. We were pleased to have spent such a
marvelous week here. There was a sense of mission accomplished
having fulfilled a promise made long ago to visit for Easter.
Hopefully, White Pepper
will be able to come for many future Easter weekends. However, for
now it is off to northern Eleuthra and more adventures.
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