White
Pepper came to Rock Sound,
Eleuthra to celebrate Easter and the Rock Sound Homecoming festival
with Bahamian friends Prof. Don Maples and his wife Paula von Hamm.
Paula is from Rock Sound although she and Don live in Freeport. We
had met 4 years ago at the homecoming, and this reunion had been on
the books for some time.
One
day during our stay they drove us out to the Cape Eleuthra Club which
is the new name for the marina at Powell Point. The scenery was
exquisite with a 270 degree seascape. The service was leisurely even
by Bahamian standards. After lunch we set out for the beach. Light
House Beach is not just another beautiful Bahamas beach. It is one
of the finest beaches I have ever seen! And I have seen a lot of
beaches.. However, it is not easy to reach.
First
pick up the Queen's Highway east of Green Castle and follow it south
east as it bisects the long spine of South Eleuthra heading towards
East End Point. This part of Eleuthra is about 10 miles long. Most
of the land is deserted. Wemyss Bight is about the only settlement
of note. The landscape is dry, thick scrub. Finally at the Bannerman
Town city limits the the two lane black top turns right. You,
however, continue straight along a narrow dirt trail full of ruts
and tire busting rocks. The chart says it is only 2 miles long, but
the road takes at least 30 minutes to travel. We passed three cars
coming out. Each one said, “yes, this is the right road. The
worst is yet to come, but it's worth it.” Finally, when it seemed
that the rental car can not possibly take anymore abuse there is a
sandy parking lot overlooking a beautiful palm shaded beach facing
out into Exuma Sound. But this beach is not the one. To the east is
a sandy trail leading over a hill and around the abandoned light
house that once long ago guarded East End Point.
No This is not the most beautiful beach in the world
This is the most beautiful beach in the world
Coming
over the trail on foot a most amazing beach opens up facing the
Atlantic Ocean. It is about 200 feet wide and a half a mile long. The
beach is flat with white sand. The sea is deep blue with dense coral
formations. For some reason the beach is free of the copious plastic
debris that coats most remote Bahamian beaches. I am sure no one
cleans this beach. It seems to clean itself. The waves lap gently
onto the shore despite a vigorous sea state offshore. Behind the
beach are sculpted limestone cliffs. To the south there is the rugged
East Point. Above everything is the light house. Climbing up to the
light yields fantastic views of the Atlantic Ocean to the east and
Exuma Sound to the south. I felt good just being at this most
wonderful spot on God's creation. Mere words can hardly describe
Light House beach, and the pictures barely do it justice.
East End Point in the distance
The abandoned light house
Paula,
who works in real estate and is quite knowledgeable in these matters,
tells me that developers have claimed to have acquired rights to this
land for $1 from the descendant of a former slave. The claim has
been tied up in court for decades. How could someone buy one of God's
best efforts for a dollar? If this beach is ever developed it would
anchor one of the world's premier resorts. However, my heart would
break to see a tiki bar or tee shirt shop on Light House Beach.
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