Elizabeth City, NC

At the mouth of the Alligator River lies Albemarle Sound. From this spot the northern bound cruiser has a choice. To the NE there is the Chuittuck Sound and the Chesapeake-Albemarle canal. This is the Virginia Cut route. It is shorter, quicker, deeper than the alternative--the Dismal Swamp route. To the N of Alligator River 20 ni. mi. across Albemarle Sound is the mouth of the Pasquotank River and the way to the Dismal Swamp.

The wind had freed enough that White Pepper was able to raise her main. This was the first time the main sail had been up in weeks. It helped calm the boat as she handled the chop. The day was beautiful with a pleasant dying clocking breeze. No day sail on Corpus Christi bay was ever nicer.

Upon entering the Pasquotank White Pepper encountered hundreds upon hundreds of crab traps strung out in lines of 6 to 12. Several hours of gingerly picking our way through this maze used up much of the afternoon. Along the Pasquotank is a gargantuan dirigible facility and the largest Coast Guard air station. Finally, Elizabeth City came into view about 12 miles up the river.

Elizabeth City offers 48 hours of free dockage at the city park. This is quite generous but requires interacting with all of the many (friendly) passersby. Elizabeth City is a great place to visit. At 17,000 population it is the largest city in NE North Carolina. The city has done a great deal of work on the waterfront and city infrastructure. They have just opened a marvelous new museum. Something seems to go on every weekend at the park.

Jan and I walked through the historical district. We were intrigued enough to do it again in a guided tour with Bonnie. Bonnie recently moved from Portsmith, VA and has restarted her business of historical guiding. We finished up with high tea at her home which is the oldest brick home in Elizabeth City. She is restoring it to its prior beauty. Later we stopped at local seafood restaurant and market. We took revenge on some of the local crabs for making our trip up the river so tedious. The food was great and cheap.

Saturday when our free 48 hours were up White Pepper headed up the now narrow and winding Pasquotank for the Dismal Swamp Canal. Jan and I believe that visiting Elizabeth City is the best reason to use the Dismal Swamp route.