White Pepper
sailed right passed Staniel's Cay on the way to Black Point, Exuma.
We actually sailed as we were short tacking into a gentle SE breeze.
That night as Jan and I were enjoying a traditional Bahamian dinner
at Lorraine's Cafe, I was struck that I could not understand why
anyone would prefer the world famous Staniel's Cay Yacht Club to
Lorraine's. The food could not possibly be any better, although I
suspect the wine list at SCYC beats the box wine at Lorraine's. I
imagined that Donald Trump and Barrac Obama would prefer the
Staniel's Cay Yacht Club, but given an honest choice Warren Buffet
and Bill Gates would choose Lorraine's.
That
is not to begrudge the Staniel's Cay people. Thirty years ago they
started with a shack that looked and functioned much as Lorraine's
does today. But with pluck and the accidents of geography they have
build a world class franchise with the mega yacht trade. Still there
is nothing White Pepper
needs there.
The
great joy of visiting Black Point is the children. They play in the
street. There is only one road and no cars or trucks. They laugh
and interact. They are not sheltered-in-place as in America--playing
video games while being protected from roving pedophiles. On this
visit Jan had bought a generous selection of children's books to
donate to the school as well as a several dozens of pens and crayons.
Also she added several sets of water colors. The principal was
grateful, of course. We asked what her plans were. She said the
greatest need was to find some way to educate the older island
children on line so that they did not have to leave for Nassau to
receive a high school education. From Nassau the kids often returned
to the out islands with tattoos and a drug habit along with their
high school diploma. We promised to help if asked.
Another
joy is the laundromat. Lorraine's cousin Ida runs it. It is clean,
efficient and all of the machines work (which is a rarity in the
Bahamas). Also there you can get a hair cut, take a shower for $6,
and buy supplies. I purchased a 2 quarts of much needed transmission
fluid.
Black
Point provides free water and garbage disposal to the boaters.
Staniel's Cay charges for both of these. Water there is fifty cents
per gallon. Garbage is $5 for a small bag and $10 for a large bag.
Lorraine's and Scorpio's bar offer free high quality WI-fi asking
only a modest donation or an order of a beer. Staniel's Cay Yacht
Club WI-fi is $5/ hour.
Adjacent
to the anchorage area is a beach that is only one or two feet deep
for several hundred yards. The white sand reflects the sunlight. By
late afternoon the water is bath tub warm. Jan and I took shampoo.
After a romp and scrub we returned to White Pepper
for a fresh water rinse—just heavenly.
Finally,
there is the bread. Good bread is also available at Staniel's Cay.
Home made Bahamian bread just does not have any equivalent in
America. It is sweet and heavy. The bread is more like a study cake
then the wimpy, wispy stuff we have at home.
Finally
it was time to leave as the wind shifted into the SW. The next two
days will be the jump to George Town, Exuma. George Town is the
capital of Exuma and cruiser's paradise. More posts later.
1 comment:
We enjoyed Black Point and had lots of laundry done there. I called ahead for Lorriane's coconut bread! Good hearing from you guys.
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