Wednesday, March 25, 2020

Elliott Key



Its all in the name after all. After looking at the chart of Biscayne Bay Jan noticed Elliott Key at southern end of bay. She was looking for a way to leave Biscayne Bay and access the Hawke Channel without going back out Government Cut. Just south of Elliott Key is Caesar's Creek. Locals assured us that it was passable despite the charts showing only 4 feet MLW (mean low water). They also raved about how beautiful it was. It is also a national park. It was designated so in 1964 after a bitter fight with developers.

However, Jan had a more compelling reason to want to explore this place. You see, her maiden name was Elliott. Elliott is spelled several different ways, but Elliotts with two L's and two T's stick together. We had to see this island and find out about Mr. Elliott. Here the story takes an unusual twist. No one knows anything about Mr. Elliott. There is no official story posted at the Ranger Station. The volunteers at the Ranger Station did not know who the island was named after. There was a long story about the Sweeting family who homesteaded the island in the 1880's and grew pineapples, but no Mr. Elliott. Later I went deep into Google (about 10 pages) and found a newspaper article from the 1970s that posed the same question. The enterprising reporter could not find a Mr. Elliott anywhere in the historical record. But he did find a Mr. Endicott, who surveyed the island in the 1740's. He surmised that over the many years Endicott evolved into Elliott.

White Pepper motored across Biscayne Bay on a lovely afternoon in order to charge the batteries. We dropped anchor about a mile off shore in 7 feet of water. This place is shallow!
Happy after finishing the anchor drill

The next day we headed into to explore the island. The only practical access to the island is at the Ranger Stations, one on the west and one on Caesar's Creek on the southern edge of the key. A dense mangrove forest grows right to the water's edge.
The water reminded us so much of the Bahamas

A very happy Elliott

After a look around the empty marina and ranger station we struck out across the island to the Atlantic. Along the way we came across Spite Highway.This is now a hiking trail maintained by the park. But in 1964 it was a 6 lane highway bulldozed through the island by developers at the last minutes to try to forestall the government from seizing the key.
Spite Highway

The Atlantic is always wonderful! We were surprised at how small and rocky the “main” beach was. Jan and I ate our sandwiches and wondered what life must have been like for the Sweeting family 150 years ago. Mosquitoes were an issue so we were soon back to boat.
Looking out over the Atlantic and the Hawke Channel

The next morning brought the transit of Caesar's Creek. Caesar was an escaped slave who set up a pirate business in the creek in the 1840s. It sounds so romantic; however, Caesar's method was to hide in the mangroves until someone came by, then he would murder them all before robbing the corpses. I guess this gruesome detail is why he is not mentioned along with Black Beard and Captain Morgan.
Caesar's Creek

White Pepper waited until an hour before high tide to begin. At the western (bayside) entrance to the creek I saw 5.4 feet on the depth sounder. The Garmin predicted 1.8 feet of tide at that time. The moon was full so the tides were higher than average. Thus it seems that the controlling depth for Caesar's Creek is 3.6 feet MLW. Once past the western bar the creek was deep and as beautiful as advertised. One small note: the channel extends about 3 miles into the Atlantic and there is shallow coral all the out alongside of the channel. Finally , White Pepper bear away and set sail for Rodriquez Key. Unbelievably, this was the first time we had set sail since leaving Green Cove Springs in November.









Monday, March 23, 2020

Coconut Grove Sailing Club


Coconut Grove is the more laid back part of Miami as well as being the heart of the Biscayne Bay sailing scene. The Coconut Grove Sailing Club has a privileged place here. It occupies 40 or so acres of the most protected anchorage along the western shore of Biscayne Bay. Its mooring field is only for members and only accepts sailboats. There are a very few transient slips that are rented out to friends and relatives of members. Our member/friend was Lorie Messer, one of Jan's earliest and best buddies from Corpus Christi. The club has a modest two story club house overlooking the anchorage. There is a function with live music every Friday evening. However, dining and socializing are not priorities here, unlike the nearby and tonier Biscayne Bay Yacht Club and the Miami Yacht Club. The emphasis is on racing and the youth program.
Lorie and Jan


                              
Coconut Groove Sailing Club mooring field at night


Mooring field at sunset with the club house in the background

Jan, new friend Larry Whipple, Lorie and Susan Mitchell at the Friday function

Biscayne Bay is a benign and lovely venue. It reminded us of a calmer, warmer, and gentler Corpus Christi Bay. There is racing every week end. At this time of the year there are numerous national and international “mid winters”. But what is really remarkable about the Coconut Grove Sailing Club is the youth program. Every Wednesday after school they launch 20 Optis for lessons and a race. The older kids practice on lasers and other class boats. There is even an adult sailing class for those who want to catch up with their children. Every afternoon and all weekend the downstairs is mobbed with kids. The club is a wonderful example for yacht clubs everywhere.

Services and shops are available although it is a good walk to most of them. Lorie ferried us around on the weekend ends to the hardware store, etc. A fellow cruiser, Dan Ritter, Gertie,had a car and took me to get propane. Dawn Ritter let Jan poach laundry services at the Dinner Key Marina next store.

Jan's sister, Susan Mitchell, flew in as a surprise visit and spent a lovely 4 days with us. Lorie was kind enough to drive her to the airport.

There was Fresh Market within walking distance of the club so we took most of our meals on the boat. We did eat at two Cuban restaurants—El Carajo and Havana Harry's (twice). El Carajo is notable in that it was a gas station that evolved into a first class restaurant. The wine list is a rack of hundreds of wine bottles on the wall. You pick one out and they open it at the table for the retail price plus $10. I thought that idea was a stunning concept. The restaurant also still sells gasoline out front. Havana Harry's was a find by the Ritters. The quantity of food, high quality and low cost were so amazing we had to go back a second time.
El Carajo.  Note the "wine list" is also the decor

Karl meets his match at Havana Harry's.  The dish is called seafood Veradero.  I could not finish even half of it.

Susan, Jan, Karl, Dawn and Dan Ritter at Havana Harry's

White Pepper rode out two cold fronts in perfect comfort there. I never could find anyone willing to tackle the difficult job of installing a new linear drive for the autopilot. Finally it was time to push on. With sadness we left Lori and our new friends at the Coconut Grove Sailing Club and headed out into Biscayne Bay for Elliott Key.
Looking back at Coconut Groove and the Dinner Key mooring field