White
Pepper has been to Calabash Bay
several times over the years and has many happy memories of the
place. So it was with anticipation that we hauled past Cape Santa
Maria and into Calabash Bay on the northern tip of Long Island. This
was the third spot Columbus was reported to have visited in the New
World. Conception Island was the second. Calabash Bay is 20 miles or so
from George Town. It was made famous by Bruce van Sant as the first
spot on a “Gentleman's Guide to Passages South”-- that is the
trip from George Town, Bahamas to Lupron, DR. It is rolly and
exposed to every wind except the prevailing Southeasterly.
Cape Santa Maria. One can barely see the Columbus Monument on top of the cliff.
We
sighted on the famous Yellow House at the south end of the anchorage
to avoid the fringing reef and anchored in 9 feet of crystal clear
water over sand.
Yellow House
White
Pepper's reasons for stopping
at Calabash Bay were to show guest, Barb Mathis, another beautiful
spot in the Bahamas and to explore Joe's Creek. Joe's Creek is a deep
and wide creek with 360 degree protection just one mile south of
Calabash Bay. We have always heard and read about this anchorage but
were deterred from visiting by the entrance. We set out to explore
by dingy. Indeed the entrance is formidable being only 6 feet deep
at low water and about 30 feet wide with rocky shore on both sides.
Today the entrance was peaceful. Once inside White Pepper
was treated to an idyllic
Bahamas scene of swiftly flowing deep and clear water over sand.
There seemed to be plenty of space to anchor numerous boats. White
Pepper may someday bring the
big boat there at slack tide high water and when there is no swell
running in Exuma Sound.
Entrance to Joe's Creek
The Captain Max on a bad day
Wide and deep. Plenty of room to anchor once inside Joe's Creek
If
Joe's Creek was a place to hide and get away from civilization, then
on the other end of Calabash Bay was one of the refinements of
civilization—the Cape Santa Maria Club. This is a high end resort
that competes with the near by and world famous Stella Maris resort.
Rooms start at $400/night. However, they welcome scruffy cruisers in
dingies. White Pepper went
there with fellow cruisers, Ron and Linda from Escape from Reality, for
lunch. We all had a relaxed and delicious meal. The contrast to
the wilderness of Joe's Creek could not have been more vivid.
Very civilized lunch at Cape Santa Maria Club
Sunset over Calabash Bay
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