What's Different about George Town in 2015

White Pepper at Sunset in Monument Anchorage, Elizabeth Harbor, George Town.

2015 is White Pepper's fourth visit to George Town, Bahamas since 2007. White Pepper has written extensively about George Town and Elizabeth Harbor in 2008, 2011, and 2014. Rather than repeat the obvious, a more interesting question is what has changed?

The short answer is “not very much.” There seem to be subtle differences, however. There appears to be a bit more prosperity about. White Pepper was startled to realize that the door to the liquor store is no longer locked. Previously one had to be buzzed inside. All white people got a buzz, presumably black people got a second look. Now everyone comes and goes without scrutiny. The reason for this change is not clear to me.

There are more buildings and more construction. However, in the very typical Bahamian manner there are just as many abandoned projects. This is such a mystery to Americans. The Bahamas are littered with unfinished marinas, homes, housing projects and resorts. The most egregious example is the local hospital. It is gorgeous and completely new, but lies unused because of lack of equipment and staff. Poor planning and a change of government are a few of the excuses I have heard. By the way the the unofficial name of the hospital is “Stairways to Heaven” because of a its lovely stairway entrance and a local rock formation of the same name. What a great name for a hospital!

The market is much improved. Fresh fruits and vegetables are usually available unlike previous year when they were only available on the day after the mail boat arrived. Many more mail boats or supply boats arrive daily except Sunday.

Beer remains prohibitively expensive at $50+/case. Wine is ridiculously overpriced although one Chilean brand, Lazo, is now available for under $10. Rum remains quite cheap.

Wi-fi and internet are more available for a price. Phone service is better and much cheaper.

There still is no movie theater or pizzeria. I think that a KFC or Pizza Hut would do very well in George Town.

The fish are largely gone. The conch are dying out which is a shame. “Cranked conch” which is deep fat fried conch when prepared by a Bahamian is one of the world delicacies.

There is a movement in Exuma to resurrect farming. More farm products are available on the street and in the market. For some reason home made bread has vanished from the George Town street. It does remain available in smaller communities.

The weather remains beautiful. The people are so friendly and courteous it is hard to believe. Marijuana seems to be a bit more in evidence recently, esp. at night. Beer is routinely consumed in public and at all hours, but no one every seems drunk or disorderly. Crime is almost non existent on Great Exuma. I would feel quite as ease walking about at mid night.

One new phrase that White Pepper hears is people referring to Great Exuma as the “main land;” presumably in distinction to the smaller rural islands of the Exuma chain. Great Exuma and George Town are no longer so rural.

Jan reports that she does not care about what has changed. She says we come here for what is beautiful and enduring. I would agree.