Great Harbour Cay to Cambridge Cay

The voyage from Great Harbour Cay to Cambridge Cay is only about 120 nautical miles. It does require planning and patience as is typical when moving to the South and East in the Bahamas.

However, arriving at Cambridge Cay is of some personal significance to White Pepper. Cambridge Cay had long been on the bucket list even before cruising. I had read accounts of how wonderful the place was in magazines. On previous trips past Cambridge Cay there was either a schedule or motor problems to prevent a stop.

This year we left Great Harbour Cay Marina in the face of a force 4 (15 knots) easterly breeze. This was on the nose, and why we did it is still a question to Jan and the cat. It was awful. However, I was amazed and shocked at how well the re powered White Pepper handled the conditions. She motored straight into a 2 to 4 foot chop at 6 plus knots. The crew was beat up badly. Aphrodite, cat, was miserable, but the boat showed no strain whatsoever.

I chose to bypass the anchorage at Devil/Hoffman's Cay. It was crowded, and from a previous post (2010) readers will remember how rolly the place was in a strong breeze. White Pepper pushed on another three nautical miles to Little Harbor in the Berry Islands. Again alert readers will remember how White Pepper in 2013 could not get the anchor to hold here at the Cabbage Cay anchorage. This year we chose the Frozen Cay anchorage in 6 feet of water over good sand. The anchor held well, and we had a quiet night after the roll calmed down about midnight.

Then it was off to Nassau in light winds motoring all the way. Using this “light and variable” day to cross the 32 miles of the New Providence Channel was the real reason why White Pepper chose to suffer so much the previous day.

Every year we swear not to go the Nassau, and every year we end up there. We always use the Nassau Harbor Club Marina. It has decent amenities for $1.50/ foot. However, main reason we use this marina is that it is close to good provisioning. The less one moves about Nassau the safer you are. And Nassau is distinctly dangerous. We replenished gasoline, diesel, propane, cash, rum and did laundry. Jan made several runs to the fabulous Fresh Market supermarket just across the street. We watched in awe as 25 knot westerly gales passed overhead.

Finally mild weather came and White Pepper left for the Exuma chain. White Pepper's new boat speed is so high with the motor that we were able to use the coral free route between the Yellow Banks and White Banks and still arrive at Norman's Cay by 4 pm. This was a trip of 45 nautical miles. The wind was still out of the Northwest, and Norman's Channel anchorage near the wreckage a plane was perfect. Reader's will remember how White Pepper spent 3 miserable days riding out a frontal passage here in 2010. This time we spent a perfectly pleasant night at anchor with mild Northwesterly wind.

The next morning the northerly flow persisted. This has been one of the longest stretch of westerly and northerly winds I can ever remember when cruising in the Bahamas. These winds are great for traveling in the usual directions of South and East, but present problems finding safe anchorages. There are many spots to anchor in the Exumas, Most of these are only protected from the NE, E, and SE which are the prevailing winds here. Nassau Harbor is safe, of course; so is Norman's Cay. The next safe anchorage with 360 degree protection is Exuma Park at Waderwick Wells, but it is always full. White Pepper exited Norman's Cay Cut onto the Exuma Sound. We used to Exuma Chain to provide a lee and had a great day of sailing and motoring on Exuma Sound. About noon we arrived at Cambridge Cay. It is part of the Exuma Land and Sea Park. There is 360 degree protection here. There are moorings in 10 to 20 feet of crystal clear water over sand. The predicted frontal passage with strong Northwesterly wind never arrived, and White Pepper spent another quiet night at anchor.

The setting is exquisite. I have heard and read about this anchorage for years. I hope it lives up to its reputation and I will let reader's know in the next post.