Sami, Kefalonia, Greece

Sami is probably the ideal yacht port on Kefalonia. It is located on a deep inlet on the middle of the eastern shore. All the ferries come here. The harbor is tight and deep. There is a good swimming beach about 50 meters away with a hot fresh water shower, and best of all, it has the cleanest public toilets I have ever seen on two continents.

Kefalonia is large and again the best way to see it is by motor car or motor bike. Team Zubenel rented both. Jillian drove, I navigated, Jane and Jan rode shot gun. Philip and Alexander trailed behind on a motor bike. First stop was the 'Cave of the Nymphs' a water filled cave where Pan was said to have spurned some nymph. The lighting was spectacular. I hope the pic can do it justice. Then on to a mountain taverna for lunch. The picture shows all of team Zubenel. The young waitress was just as impressive as as the delicious food. She spoke colloquial American English. We asked her where she learned it, and she said school and TV. We invited her to America, and I hope she makes it.

Just down the hill from the taverna on the western shore of Kefalonia was Myrtos Beech which is said to be one of the top beeches in the world. It's a nice beech and the picture shows its grandeur. But after the Caribbean and Florida, all I can say is that Mytros is one of the best PEBBLE beeches in the world.

The highlight of the day was the town of Assos. Assos is a small village on the western shore of Kefalonia. It has an incredible anchorage that is off the cruising guide for some reason and a mysterious 'Castle of Assos.' The castle is high on promontory guarding the anchorage. A steep 1.8 kilometer hike is required to see it. The castle was built by the Venetians in the 15th century to suppress pirates. It was abandoned by them soon afterwards when the Venetians conquered Lefkada and move military operations there. The castle was used by the locals off and on for centuries, usually as a prison. It was finally completely abandoned in 1955. When Jan and I got to the top there was no ranger station, no vendors, no water, and not even commemorative plaques. My first thought was that the Junior League could turn this place into a world class tourist stop.

The drive included the usual breath taking vistas that I have described in previous posts. The picture is a view of Ithaca from eastern Kefalonia.

Sadly we had to leave the Zubenel. We took the large ferry to Patros on the mainland. (see pic) I am sure that the scenery would have been spectacular, but the summer haze obscured the view. We did get see the low lands of Mesaloggi off to the north, and I saluted Lord Byron and all of the Hellenophiles that died there for Greece's independence in 1838. Then it was off the ferry and on to the bus to Athens.