Levkada

Levkada is a mountainous island just adjacent to the main land. Some consider it the home of Ulysses. There Penelope resisted offers from many ravenous suitors until Ulysses returned after 10 years of having fun and slew them all. 'The Oddesy' says that he lived on Ithaca. There is an island of Ithaca nearby, but it is geologically too modest to be the literay equivalent of "fair Ithaca with lofty peaks." We anchored "stern to" on the town quay of Levkada Town after a short motor from Preveza. Levkada town is a busy but quaint town with an extensive yacht services industry. There are 2 long streets that are lined with shops, bars, markets, etc. We just picked out one restaurant and had a great dinner.

The next day was too windy to safely leave the berth so we toured the island in Philip's car. The scenery was spectacular with sheer mountain cliffs on one side and the sea on the other. We stopped for coffee at the sea-side village of Vilaski. They were having a race week. We watched the start from the coffee shop. They are on to something. The line is very long and everyone starts at once--catamarans, racing skiffs, J-24s and fat old cruising boats. It must have been quite exciting on board the 50 or so racers. The bikini contest was later, but we were off to find lunch in one of the mountain villages. There was a perfectly picturesque tarvern, the Solukous, in the village of Dragona. I had the "Cuttlefish of the Coals" which was delicious. It was the best cuttlefish I had ever had as it was the only cuttlefish I have ever had. Jan had "Rooster of the Village."

Today we moved down to Nidri, also on Lefkada. We motored thru the canal before entering the northern reaches of the Inland Sea which is an arm of the Ionian Sea. We motored past the old fort of Veronitsa. There is a great deal of turbulent history on these islands. After about 5 nautical miles we turned in past the island of Skorpios which is wholely owned by the Onassis family and entered the protected cove of Nidri.

Nidri is more of a "beachy" resort with mostly hotels, shops and restaurants. We arrived early enough to get a prime spot on the quay. Then we all got into swimsuits and spent the afternoon at the pool of the Athos hotel--all very decadent. Also poolside or asleep or both is the only way to spend the afternoon in Greece. It is so hot here that they have a Mexican-like way of life. Shops open early and then close by 2 pm or maybe 3 pm. For the government offices that's the end of the day. But commercial establishments reopen about 6 pm and stay open late.