“Cruising
the Keys” is a phrase we heard often this winter as an alternative
to the storm ravaged Bahamas. However, in truth there are few all
weather anchorages in the keys outside of Boot Key Harbor (Marathon).
The cruising guide reports that most boats just try to find a place
to hunker down in some marina and spend the winter bicycling,
snorkeling or bird watching.
Another
issue to cruising the keys is depth. Consensus is that boats with
more than 4 feet of draft should stay outside in the Hawke Channel
while shallow draft boats can use the ICW on the Florida Bay side.
There are only two cross over points—the 5 mile bridge and the 7
mile bridge. White Pepper chose
to stay outside.
It
was well after noon by the time we left Caesar's Creek and turned SW.
The wind was easterly off the port quarter astern and we could make
good time sailing. Rodriquez Key was only 30 n. miles ahead. I had
long heard of Rodriquez Key. Most Florida cruisers have been there
and it is adjacent to the John Pennibaker underwater park which has
great snorkeling. Imagine our horror to find the anchorage to be an
open road stead completely exposed to the prevailing easterly breeze.
Jan kept repeating “We may as well have anchored in the middle of
the Atlantic”. There is plenty of room and the holding is great in
7 feet of water. White Pepper
spent a very uncomfortable albeit safe night bobbing in 1 to 2 foot
seas. We left early and did not bother to take any pictures.
The
next stop west for most cruisers is Marathon. However, we had spent
a wonderful week there is 2007 and did not feel the need to visit
again. Also Marathon has gotten popular. There is now a waiting list
to get a mooring ball. As an alternative I had picked out Long Key
which has an anchorage on the west side of the 5 mile bridge.
However, it too was exposed to the brisk easterly wind. Taking a tip
from a fellow cruiser White Pepper
went under the 5 mile bridge and back tracked 3 miles to the east to
Matacumbe Bight. On the Florida Bay side it is a wonderfully
protected anchorage from the east and south. It is said to be
untenable in north winds. We spent a lovely evening and night there.
Sunset from Matacumbe Bight, note the calm sea state
The
next day brought a 55 n mile hike to New Found Harbor near Pine Key.
This is said to be a best protected anchorage between Key West and
Marathon. I was especially looking forward to it since White
Pepper dropped the hook there on
December 22, 2007. It was the first time we had anchored on the
extended cruise. We wound be “closing the circle” in some way.
This boat is anchored almost exactly where White Pepper was 12 years ago
This time we carried on into New Found Harbor and anchored behind Wisteria Island
Finally
came the leg to Key West which was only 25 n. miles to the west.
Again taking a tip from a fellow cruiser I had booked a month long
stay at Stock Island Resort and Marina. Originally the plan to was
to re-provision, entertain guests, and take a side trip to the Dry
Tortugas and return. I needed to find a rigger as the main halyard
had parted during the trip. Finally I would make yet another effort
to find someone who could replace the linear drive on the auto pilot.
The decision to take a month's lease turned out to be providential.
As the corona virus lock down hit, all boats in Key West marinas with
leases less than 27 days were asked to leave. The famous Garrison
Bight mooring field was closed as well. The story of Key West in the
time of the Covid is for another day.
Stock Island and channel in the distance
